Marie Antoinette’s Pearl and Diamond Pendant
A Journey Through Time, Wealth, and Intrigue
Few objects in history have carried with them the weight of legacy, tragedy, and glamour as much as Marie Antoinette’s pearl and diamond pendant. This exquisite jewel, once worn by the doomed Queen of France, has traveled centuries across borders, revolutions, and dynasties, only to resurface in a dazzling Sotheby’s auction where it sold for an astonishing $36 million, a record-breaking price for a pearl jewel.
The sale was not just about the beauty of the pendant. It was about history, symbolism, and the enduring fascination with one of Europe’s most iconic figures. To understand why this piece commanded such a price, one must journey back to the glittering yet volatile world of 18th-century Versailles, through the turmoil of the French Revolution, and into the modern market of rare jewels.
The Origins: Jewels of a Queen
Marie Antoinette (1755–1793), the Austrian archduchess who became Queen of France, was known for her opulent lifestyle and love of luxury. At Versailles, she cultivated an image of extravagance through fashion, couture, and jewelry. Her collection included diamonds, emeralds, sapphires, and pearls, the latter being especially prized in the 18th century for their rarity and luster.
Unlike today, natural pearls were incredibly scarce. They had to be painstakingly collected from oysters in the Persian Gulf, the Indian Ocean, or the waters off Ceylon (Sri Lanka). A pearl of even a few millimeters in perfect roundness was a treasure. A pendant containing one of extraordinary size, matched with diamonds, was beyond priceless at the time.
Marie Antoinette’s jewel box was considered one of the finest in Europe. While kings and queens had long amassed jewels for both adornment and as portable wealth, the Queen’s preference leaned heavily on pearls. She adored them for their elegance and subtlety, believing pearls represented purity and regal grace.
The pendant in question featured a large, natural drop-shaped pearl, suspended from a diamond bow motif. Its simplicity was deceptive: this was a jewel of monumental value and craftsmanship.
The Fall of the Monarchy and the Dispersal of the Jewels
When the French Revolution broke out in 1789, Versailles became unsafe. The royal family was forced to move to the Tuileries Palace in Paris, effectively prisoners of the revolutionary government. Amid this turbulence, Marie Antoinette entrusted many of her jewels to loyal courtiers.
In 1791, as escape plans were underway, the Queen secretly arranged for her jewels to be smuggled out of France. Records suggest that they were sent to her nephew, the Austrian Emperor, in Vienna for safekeeping. This ensured that, even as the monarchy fell and the Queen herself was imprisoned, a portion of her precious jewelry survived.
Tragically, Marie Antoinette never saw them again. In October 1793, she was executed by guillotine at the age of 37. Her jewels, however, remained in Austrian hands and were eventually passed down through her descendants in the Bourbon-Parma family, one of Europe’s oldest dynasties.
The Jewelry’s Journey Through Generations
For centuries, Marie Antoinette’s jewels remained locked away in private royal collections, rarely seen by the public. The pendant, along with other extraordinary pieces, became part of a tightly-guarded family treasure trove.
Pearls gradually lost some of their prominence in the 19th and 20th centuries as diamonds became more commercially available through mines in South Africa. Yet natural pearls of such size and provenance remained rare beyond measure.
By the 21st century, the Bourbon-Parma descendants decided to part with several heirlooms, citing both the practical difficulties of maintaining such treasures and the incredible value they could command at auction. Thus, in 2018, Sotheby’s Geneva announced one of the most anticipated sales in jewelry history: The Royal Jewels from the Bourbon-Parma Family, headlined by Marie Antoinette’s personal pendant.
The Sotheby’s Auction: A Historic Event
On November 14, 2018, the world watched as Sotheby’s Geneva held an auction unlike any other. Collectors, museums, and royal enthusiasts were riveted. Among dozens of exquisite jewels offered, none carried the aura of history like the pearl and diamond pendant.
Before the sale, Sotheby’s described the piece as “one of the most important royal jewels ever to appear on the market.” Its estimate was set at $1–2 million, already an extraordinary sum. But the auction house and seasoned collectors knew that the true selling price would soar far beyond.
The atmosphere inside Sotheby’s auction hall was electric. With bidders phoning in from across the globe, New York, Hong Kong, London, and Geneva itself, the competition was fierce. Each increment of bidding sent ripples through the audience. Within minutes, the price skyrocketed past its estimate.
Finally, the hammer fell at $36,165,000, setting a world record for any pearl jewel ever sold at auction. Gasps and applause erupted in the room. Marie Antoinette’s pendant had not just sold; it had transcended mere commerce and cemented itself as a cultural icon.
Why Was It So Expensive?
The astronomical price can be attributed to several intertwined factors:
1. Historical Provenance
Objects directly linked to Marie Antoinette have always fascinated collectors. Her tragic life story, from lavish Queen to executed prisoner, is one of history’s most dramatic tales. Owning a piece she once held, especially a jewel tied to her identity, is like holding a fragment of history itself.
2. Rarity of Natural Pearls
Unlike cultured pearls, which dominate the modern market, natural pearls are almost extinct. The large drop pearl on this pendant is a phenomenon of nature, impossible to replicate today. Its survival over centuries, in such condition, makes it invaluable.
3. Craftsmanship and Materials
The pendant’s diamonds, set in a delicate bow motif, reflect 18th-century artistry at its finest. The combination of diamonds and a natural pearl of this size is exceedingly rare.
4. Market Dynamics
Ultra-wealthy collectors, often competing for status and legacy, are willing to pay astronomical sums for unique objects. The story, beauty, and rarity of the pendant made it irresistible.
5. Record-Setting Appeal
Collectors often want to own “the most expensive” or “the rarest” of something. This pendant represented an opportunity to own a jewel that would forever be etched in auction history.
Who Bought the Pendant?
Sotheby’s never disclosed the buyer’s identity, citing confidentiality. What is known is that the winning bid came via phone, suggesting representation by an anonymous client, possibly a private collector, museum, or even a member of modern royalty.
Speculation swirled in the press. Some suggested a Middle Eastern royal family, given the region’s interest in pearls and its wealth. Others hinted at Asian collectors, particularly from China and Hong Kong, where the demand for historic jewels has surged in recent decades.
Regardless of the identity, what is certain is that the buyer paid not just for a jewel but for one of the most storied artifacts of European history.
Where Is the Pendant Now?
As of today, the pendant’s location remains undisclosed. It is most likely in a private collection, safeguarded with extreme security. Occasionally, such jewels reappear on loan to museums or exhibitions, where the public can glimpse them.
There is hope that the owner might one day lend the pendant to institutions such as the Louvre in Paris, the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, or the Smithsonian in Washington, D.C., all of which regularly showcase historic jewels. Until then, the pendant remains shrouded in mystery, much like its original owner.
The Legacy of Marie Antoinette’s Jewels
The sale of the pearl and diamond pendant in 2018 reignited global fascination with Marie Antoinette. It reminded the world not only of her luxurious tastes but also of her humanity, the fact that she carefully sent her jewels away for safekeeping speaks to her foresight as she faced uncertain fate.
For historians, the pendant is more than jewelry; it is a surviving witness to the fall of the French monarchy. For collectors, it is the pinnacle of rarity and prestige. And for the public, it is a symbol of beauty, tragedy, and the enduring allure of the past.
A Jewel Beyond Measure
Marie Antoinette’s pearl and diamond pendant is far more than a lavish accessory. It is a vessel of history, carrying the whispers of Versailles, the anguish of revolution, and the triumph of survival across centuries. Its $36 million sale at Sotheby’s was not just a financial transaction but a cultural milestone, showing how humanity continues to cherish and assign value to objects that connect us with the past.
Today, somewhere in a vault or perhaps adorning a privileged neckline, the pendant rests. Yet its story remains alive, an eternal reminder of the Queen who lost her crown but left behind treasures that time could never erase. image / Photograph: Daniel Leal-Olivas/AFP/Getty
